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| Zodiac Nature 2 "G" Sanitizer Cartridge W28145 - NEW!! |
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| New Price: 83.60 USD |
| Old Price: 88.00 USD |
| Saved: 5 Percent |
| Sale ends: 2010-03-05 16:00:14 |
 or:Show Seller's other items thepoolman |
Reviews & GuidesWhat is a salt water pool / chlorine generator?This review contains information I wish I had two years ago when first starting out and I hope it helps you learn about this technology quickly! It is written in two sections: A general explanation, and then my ownership experiences.
Friends, if you appreciate this guide then please take a moment to give it a Yes vote -- thanks in advance.
I first learned about saltwater pools from a friend who's summer project one year was about $120,000 worth of backyard landscaping which included, among other things, a saltwater pool with a waterfall. I had never heard of a saltwater pool before, and he explained that the main reason he used a saltwater solution in his pool was to reduce the operating costs. I thought saltwater pools were exotic technology but it turns out they are definitely cheaper to operate and maintain than traditional treated pools. Thankfully Intex, and many other manufacturers, make this equipment at a reasonable price so you don't have to be a millionaire to enjoy the technology.
1. General Explanation:
A chlorine generator is a new type of support equipment for recreational pools that eliminates the cost of purchased chlorine. Pools equipped with a chlorine generator, available in either stand alone units or in combination with a pump, generate chlorine automatically using the pool water itself and thereby avoid the cost associated with purchasing chlorine.
In order to utilize a chlorine generator, the pool water must be converted from a freshwater pool to what is called a "saltwater pool". This is accomplished by adding approximately 20 lbs of salt per 1000 gallons of fresh water. The salinity (saltiness) of the pool may be adjusted up and down according to the requirements of the manufacturer of the chlorine generator. Techncially, this low level of salinity is still considered fresh water by drinking water standards.
The chlorine gener... CHLORINE: DO YOU KNOW WHO YOUR WARRIORS ARE?Free chlorine -- Tied up chlorine -- Total chlorine? It's all chlorine isn't it? It's all chlorine, but only one type of chlorine is busy working to keep your swimming pool healthy. Do you know which chlorine you're testing? Here's a quick breakdown of what each chlorine reading tells any pool owner ... Free Chlorine is the ACTIVE sanitizer in your pool. It's busy killing germs, bacteria, and breaking down contaminants in your pool. Free chlorine are your warriors. Tied up Chlorine (or combined chlorine) is busy, but often times the chlorine becomes too busy to be considered active. On the other hand, sometimes this chlorine is just spent and has worn itself out. Either reason, the tied up chlorine in a pool is INACTIVE. Tied up chlorine are tired warriors who either need to be free'd up or retired. If these guys retire, they retire; if they just need free'd up, they'll usually go into the free chlorine zone and get active. Total Chlorine is just the sum of the free and tied up chlorine. When you add these two numbers together, sure ... you'll get a chlorine reading, but you won't know who your warriors are. Make sure you know which chlorine reading you're testing ... it matters in the life of a healthy swimming pool. TURN CLOUDY POOL WATER INTO SPARKLING LIQUID ICE!Sparkling Liquid Ice. That's what the water in a really, really great swimming pool often looks like. Even though it's pool water, the body of water can literally remind you of clear, lush white wine made just for swimming. This is what a truly clear pool can look like, but if you battle cloudy water from time to time ... here are a few quick tips to look for: This is the third swimming pool guide written to help people who are puzzled or frustrated. If you are interested in knowing a little about who I am ... or how I'm able to write about swimming pool tips, check out the Creativity Shoppe's ABOUT ME page. I see and deal with frustrated, exhausted pool owners on a daily ... BACKYARD POOLS: CHLORINE & BUDGETS IN SIMPLE TERMSBackyard swimming pools can be a great source of fun and relaxation during the hot days of summer! You know where the kids are ... there's a "vacation" in the backyard all year long ... you don't have to contend with driving to the nearest public pool ... the conveniences of owning your own pool are immeasurable and besides, all it takes is a little chlorine to keep it healthy! But really, what is "a little" in terms of chlorine? Actually, the amount of chlorine for any one pool depends entirely on so many variables that to make a definitive statement would be misleading. Every pool has its own "chlorine demand." But there are some things you, as a pool owner, can do to help make your chlorine go a little further; which in the end, could make a difference in your family budget. Spa Chemicals 101-An Easy Introduction to Spa ChemicalsHere's a spa water chemistry primer that should help clarify what actually goes on in the mysterious soup that is your spa water. If you are seeking true hot tub enlightenment, please read on? If your experience was anything like ours, the most confusing thing about owning a spa is dealing with the chemicals that are required to do a whole bunch of seemingly complicated things. There are sanitizers, shock, pH balancers, test strips, water cleaners, filter cleaners and you name it. They all do different things except for chlorine, bromine, minerals and ozone which all do the same thing? only differently, which leads us to? "The most important thing" We know an expert in our business who says, "on a scale of one to ten, using a sanitizer in your spa is a" ten" and everything else begins at around a three." Our friend tends to exaggerate for effect, but he's got a point. Sanitizing your spa water is the most important spa maintenance you can do for yourself. Why? Because sanitizers kill the bacteria and viruses that populate every spa (that's right Mr. Clean, even your spa). Put bluntly, you don't take a soak in an un-sanitized spa for the same reasons you don't stick your head in a toilet (yes, we know, but just because your friends think you should do it doesn't mean you should). Got the picture? Ok, so here's a quick run down on the different types of spa sanitizers: Chlorine: You're probably familiar with Chlorine as the primary sanitizer used in pools. You can use chlorine safely in spas too, except in a different concentration. There are chlorine tablets and chlorine granules created specifically for spa use. MAYO Clinic Report on "Hot Tub Lung"Hot tubs provide an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria, such as M. avium. Bacterial growth is more likely to occur in tubs that aren't cleaned as often as recommended. Also, added chlorine loses most of its disinfectant properties at temperatures above 84 F. How do the bacteria get in your lungs? Bubbles form in the contaminated water from the hot tub jets. The bubbles rise to the surface, burst and disperse the bacteria into the air (aerolization). Signs and symptoms of M. avium infection usually include: Shortness of breath Chest X-rays Discontinuing use of the hot tub The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends these guidelines for the proper treatment and maintenance of water in hot tubs: 2 to 5 parts per million (ppm) of chlorine HOW - WHY - HELP ME BUY GUIDE FOR POOL SHOCK TREATMENT!The label says, "Go swimming in minutes after shocking!" Sounds like a great deal, but do you know exactly how this product works? Or when to use it correctly? Here's a few tips about buying shock treatment for your swimming pool. First of all, in order for a non-chlorine shock to work efficiently, there has to be some type of chlorine reading already present in your pool. In almost all instances, this reading would be the tied-up chlorine reading. For those of you unfamiliar with this term, please see CHLORINE: KNOW YOUR WARRIORS for a brief explanation. The basic concept behind a non-chlorine shock is to release tied-up chlorine and therefore throw it into the free chlorine category without sky-rocketing a pool's chlorine level. This, in turn, allows swimmers to use the pool without waiting long periods of time until a safe chlorine level can be achieved. Using a non-chlorine shock is ideal between regular chlorine shocks. If you shock your pool every Wednesday, continue to do so but for those cloudy pool days in between ... test your water for the presence of tied-up chlorine. If you use test strips to test your water, here's an easy way to determine when and if you should use a non-chlorine shock! If your total chlorine color patch is darker than your free chlorine color patch; you could use a non-chlorine shock OR numerically speaking, when your total chlorin... Understanding and Replacing Spa Filters. How do I locate and inspect my filter? Your replaceable spa filter (sometimes called a filter cartridge) is most likely a cylindrical object with plastic caps at either end and some pleated material in the middle that used to be white. Its first job is to clean your water and protect your health. Secondly, it helps prevent your spa pump and other parts from getting gunked up with microscopic and larger particles that can threaten both your health AND your spa investment. We wish there was an easy way to explain how to locate and remove your filter but the truth is there are so many different locations and types of filters we can't do it here. However, we do have a few tips for you: Filters are located somewhere in the main spa water path and are most often partially visible from inside the spa. You may find it under a lid or in a canister, "cradle" or "bucket". If you can't find your filter, check your owner's manual. If you don't have an owner's manual, try logging on to the manufacturer's web site. Often, original spa manufacturers post their owners manuals and other technical information on their sites. Filters can be removed in several ways. Here again, it's best to check your owner's manual or manufa... No more Chlorine in your shower!It wasn't until my family battled with dry skin, bloodshot eyes and allergies that I decided to do some research to find out what may be causing the problems. It did not take long to connect the dots and realize that our problems were the effects of Chlorine. No, not too much time in the pool - too much time in the shower! We discovered that the Chlorine exposure during a shower is equal to drinking 8 full glasses of unfiltered tap water a day (which we would not do). According to research, Chlorine is absorbed into the body through the skin when it vaporizes in hot water, the fumes are inhaled into the lungs and irritate sensitive lung and eye tissues (just to name a few). We did some extensive research since there are a lot of Shower Filters on the market. We were looking for the Filter that was the most effective in removing the Chlorine, was inexpensive and easy to maintain and looked nice in our shower (that is important ya know). The New Wave Premium Shower Filter came highly recommeded by friends, coworkers, wellness instructors and nutritionists. Since we were already using the Polycarbonate water bottles by New Wave and loved the product we checked their Filter out first. It seemed to have everything we were looking for including ease of buying replacment cartridges each year. After checking out 14 Filters, some which were much more expensive, we came back to the New Wave Premium Filter and have been quite pleased. We have used the Filter in all of our showers for 2 years now and have not had any problems at all. I can not think of anything we would change about it and recommend it to all of our friends. Many of our customers have asked us to publish a general all-care handbook for Hot Tub Owners. So here it is! We hope it helps. Start-Up Polish the entire spa surface with Fast Gloss prior to filling. Weekly Always allow product to circulate in water for one minute with jets on prior to adding another product. Circulate water for 10 minutes after all products are added. Test water using an AquaChek test strip. Adjust as needed. If needed, add Bright & Clear according to label directions. Add Defender according to label directions. Add Enzyme according to label directions. IMPORTANT NOTE: It?s best to Shock your spa with Renew or Oz IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOU USE IT. Monthly Cleaning Shut off your spa, remove the spa filter and clean using Instant Cartridge Clean. Spa cover should be cleaned using either Cover Wipes or Cover Care & Conditioner. 3-Month Cleaning Add Jet Clean according to label directions. (remove the filter prior to use) Drain your spa Clean the shell of the spa with CitraBright and wipe down. Apply Fast Gloss to spa surface to protect, seal, and keep the spa finish from fading. ... Spa Sanitizers, Bromine, Mineral Purifier, or ChlorineThis guide is written to take the mystery out of choosing a sanitizer for your spa. I'm sure you have seen several choices, maybe had experience with some and heard about others. We'll explore three common types of sanitizers and discuss the pros and cons of each. Using Chlorine as a sanitizer for spas Chlorine is a halogen, and has been used for many years as a pool sanitizer. It's germ and bacteria killing properties are well documented, and has been the standard in pools for decades. Is it a good choice for a spa? Here are some facts. Chlorine will begin to offgas, or turn from a solid to a gas, at 97 degrees. If you keep your spa warmer than 97 degrees, which most of us do, you will need to add more chlorine, more frequently, to maintain a adequate residual. 5 parts per milllion (PPM) is generally accepted as a adequate residual of chlorine in a spa. To maintain this you need to do one of two basic methods. 1) Use solid tablets in a floater. In this method, solid tablets, usually 1" in diameter, are added to a floating dispenser. These dispensers have some method to control how much chlorine is dispensed. This is usually by turning the outside tube of the floater to expose open slots in the inner tube. The more slots exposed, the more chlorine goes into the water. Using a floater will aide in keeping a even amount of chlorine in the water, and usually only need to be checked every 5 to 7 days. If you find your chlorine residuals are not high enough, you should add additional tablets to the floater, before adjusting the floater to expose more notches. We also recommend shocking the spa with non-chlorine oxidizer shock prior to testing the water by 20 to 30 minutes. This will re-activate any spent chlorine, and give you a more accurate reading of active chlorine in the ... Advantages of Spa Salt Sanitizing/Ozone SystemsMany people don't understand enough about water chemistry and sanitization to think much about the overall cost of keeping hot tub or spa water clean over the life of the spa. Chemical sanitization for spas or hot tubs was traditionally the only method available and the cost could run into many hundreds of dollars per year. Within the last ten years or so, ozone generators (which oxygenate the water and help kill bacteria) for spas and hot tubs were developed and, when installed, did reduce by about 25%, the amount of chemicals needed to sanitize the spa on a regular basis. One of the drawbacks to a regular ozonator, however, is that they tended to be effective for about 18-24 months and then either needed to have a chip replaced (chip replacements plus labor costs could be as much as $200) or replaced entirely (total cost as much as $300). So in addition to 75% of normal chemical costs (averaging between $350 and $400 per year), a regular spa ozonator comes with a frequent and hefty maintenance/replacement cost. The non-monetary costs of maintenance (adding chemicals, checking chemicals, and checking the ozonator's performance) added an irony to owning a hot tub (which is meant for relaxation and enjoyment) in that some spa owners complained that they spent more time maintaining the hot tub than they did using it. Enter the salt sanitizing/ozone system. This opti... swimming poolsDo not buy a Trevi pool . Trevi pools will give you a 20 or 30 year warrenty but they may no longer carry the pool. I have one 5yrs old and have been trying for 3yrs to get parts. Once they stop making the pool your out of luck if you have a problem. THEY WILL TELL YOU THAT YOU HAVE TO REPLACE POOL BECAUSE THEY NO LONGER MAKE THE PARTS, BUT THEY WILL HONOR WARRENTY BY SELLING YOU ANOTHER POOL AND PRORATING IT. I NEED A TOP RAIL BECAUSE THE SUN DAMAGED IT. (FAULTY MATERIAL) I would have to pay 832.00 plus $450.00 for water and who knows how much for liner and cost to install it.By the time they get done with that warrenty I can buy a new pool from someone else that might carry there pools or parts longer than 3yrs. Buying Spa Chemicals or Hot Tub SuppliesThis guide is designed to help take the guess work out of buying spa chemicals on the internet. It will detail what to look for and how to feel comfortable with your purchase. I hope you will find it useful. To most of us chemicals of any kind are a blind item, in other words, we don't know what were getting. We trust that the product in the bottle is what we paid for and want, but were never quite sure. Many spa chemicals have ingredients that are required to be listed on the label. This is for our protection and the protection of those who transport these chemicals. This can help us to determine what is actually in the product we buy. Some spa chemicals do not contain any of the ingredients that are required to be listed on the label. When we buy these products, we need to have already established a comfort level with the vendor we are purchasing from. If the vendor is honest with those products that have ingredients listed, chances are they will be honest with those that don't have ingredients listed. I'll try to explain what I mean. As with everything, there are those vendors we can trust and those we can't or shouldn't. The trick is knowing the difference. If you want Bromine Tablets, lets say, which is a common spa requirement, you may see a few dozen listings for Bromine Tablets on Ebay. A reputable dealer will list, in the description, what percentage of Bromine is in their tablets. If it's not in the description, they should be happy to answer a question about the percentages if you ask them through Ebay's ask a question link. You may see 5 pounds of tablets for 39.99 and 5 pounds for 29.99, whay the difference. Chances are the cheaper tablets have a large percentage of Chlorine in them. That's how manufacturers make cheaper chemicals, they will cut or dilute the more expensive product with a less expensive one. In this case they will add Chlorine to the Bromi... buying a hot tub, spa, pool or related itemsI have owned my own retail store since 1998. My store sells hot tubs, pools, tanning beds, all related items to same. Want honest answers, not sales hype? If you have questions about: How to pick the right hot tub, size, jets, power. What about the extras, ozonator, stereo, lights. What kind of pool would be best for you, above or in-ground. If in-ground pool then which, fiberglass, liner, concrete. Call ME, Dale Howard @ (256) 746-6387 that is 256- PHONE US. If you feel that I honestly helped you then maybe you will consider buying from us. THANKS DALE How To Maintain A Safe, Non-Toxic, Eco-Friendly Hot TubThis guide is intended for those Hot Tub owners looking for a simple solution to the most common hot tub and spa water problems. Using safe, non-toxic chemicals, you can maintain a clean spa that reduces the need for foam control, ph balance and other stabilizers. EcoOne Monthly is an eco-friendly solution that I have been personally using since purchasing my hot tub. The product is miraculous. Here's the water treatment plan I follow: Every 60-90 Days Every 30 Days Every Week This is not just an easy system for maintaining your water. It's a great way to join the "Green Revolution", by eliminating unecessary c... TROUBLE ESTABLISHING A FREE CHLORINE COUNT?Having trouble maintaining chlorine in your pool? You're not alone. More and more municipalities have switched to a new way to treat their water and although it may work good on their end ... the new system plays havoc with pool chemistry. Water treatment facilities are now using a system involving "chloramines" to treat their water. Basically, in the pool chemistry world, "chloramines" are tied-up chlorine (or inactive chlorine). This is the chlorine reading that most pool owners want to "shock" out of their pool water because too much can cause cloudy water and/or render a pool's chlorine level ineffective. Here's the real problem though ... when a pool owner starts out with a certain level of chloramines in their source water, the chloramine level must first be burnt out in order to successfully maintain free chlorine (the actual chlorine disinfecting your pool). In professional pool water chemistry circles, this is called a "chlorine demand" and it's usually very high. If the chlorine demand is not satisfied, free chlorine is almost impossible to establish and/or maintain. A new term has emerged from this type of chlorine demand called "breakpoint chlorination" whereby the chlorine demand is measured and a reading is calculated to break down chloramines to the point where they are rendered so that free chlorine can be established. For more information, contact a pool water professional in your area. * This guide is written from a pool water perspective and in no way implies knowledge of how municipal water treatment facilities operate. SALT SYSTEMSTHEY DONT TELL YOU THAT SALT IS CORROSIVE AND THAT ALOT OF COMPANIES VOID THERE WARRINTIES IF YOU HAVE A SALT SYSTEM. THE END PRODUCT IS THE SAME WETHTER YOU USE SALT OR CHLORINE TABS. ALOT ALSO HAS TO DO WITH YOU FILTRATION AND EQUIPMENT. IF IT WAS SUCH A GREAT PRODUCT I WOULD HAVE ONE ON MY POOL AND I HAVE MY CHOISE OF 3 DIFFERENT UNIT FOR FREE. Why is Water Testing Important?We sell the products That will helpp you test. Installing a spa ozonator
OzoneOutlet store install page Installing a Del ozonator in your spa is easy. Most spas made today come ozone ready, which means your spa manufacturer has done most of the work for you. If you are replacing an existing ozonator, you can simply connect to the existing ozone tubing and the replacement should only take a few minutes! Even if your spa is not ozone ready, reading through the information below will simplify the installation. Del ozonators work by using a corona discharge or CD (electrical arc similar to lightning but on a smaller scale of course) to convert oxygen into ozone also called O3. A clear air line coming from the ozonator is connected to your plumbing and the flow created by your pump creates a venturi (suction point) that sucks the ozone gas into the water. There are 5 steps to installing an ozonator: 1: Mounting your ozonator 2: Connecting the ozone tubing to your spa 3: Installing the check valve and creating a Hartford Loop to prevent water from backing up into your ozonator 4: Plugging the ozonator into your spa pack or hard wiring 5: Setting the timer on your spa Click on this link for a detailed explanation complete with pictures
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